Cross > Climbing

Kendal, with eL Bee!. Quiet today.
70min before coffee. 12m walls, top rope and autobelays, 5+ up and down on 18m autobelay, otherwise max 6a+ up only. Tried the 6a+ I failed at on an autobelay before, failed again at the same point (eL Bee! didn't even notice the move, he was able just to step up whereas it was a leap on to a sloping hold for me).
I'm not climbing at my best, wrists and forearms don't feel fully recovered from weights on Thursday afternoon.
65min after coffee (tea for me because the coffee was horrible last week). 18m wall, seconded and descended 5+, top roped 6b, led and descended 5+, top roped 6a.
Following on from that paper about asymptomatic shoulder damage in elite climbers, and the use of the term "overhead sports", I was conscious of how much time I spent reaching up, or weighting my extended shoulder when downclimbing.